New online exhibition

Wedding Shoe Stories Explore The Perfect Pair:

The Perfect Pair Around the world, the joining of individuals and families through marriage is often marked with joyful celebrations, elaborate rituals, extravagant displays of wealth, and time-honoured traditions. Many of these wedding traditions and rituals are performed to ensure that newlyweds step into the future on a sure footing.

Traditional wedding costumes have also been integral to the celebration of marriage. Shoes, in particular, have a rich history of being the focus of many auspicious traditions. From customs that encourage good fortune to playful traditions, the first steps of a newlywed couple are often seen as setting them in the direction of a happy, fruitful, and successful union. Back Next

Western Traditions Although the colour white has long been associated with purity in the West, it has not always been associated with bridal costume. Prior to the mid-19th century, the only expectation concerning bridal dress was that brides be dressed as sumptuously as their financial situation allowed. European royalty, who made use of white for imperial weddings, used the colour more as a background for rich silver and gold embellishment rather than for any symbolic meaning. It was the rise of neo-classical fashion in the early 1800s, with its stress on white for all types of women’s clothing, which set the stage for the white wedding. The Wedding by Proxy of Marie de' Medici to King Henry IV by Peter Paul Rubens, 1622–25. Back Next

Made in America when it was still a British colony, these rare wedding shoes reflect the contemporary English fashion in footwear. American, 1756. Worn by Mrs. Catherine Dexter. Collection of the BSM P99.85 Back Next

Classical White After the French Revolution, fashion changed throughout Western Europe to reflect the new world order. While ancient Greek ideas of democracy inspired politics, classical white marble sculptures inspired fashion and the colourful brocaded silks of the aristocratic age gave way to white muslin. By the early 1800’s, white had become the predominant colour in women’s dress and was a very fashionable choice for all women, including brides. Felicite Louise Julie Constance de Durfort by Merry-Joseph Blondel, 1808 Back Next

This pair of early 19th century white shoes was made in Philadelphia. Although they have a maker’s label, the fact that they are from the United States is also evidenced in their slight heel, a style which had already gone out of fashion in Europe. Philadelphia, United States, 1814-1817. Collection of the BSM P91.163 Back Next

Queen Victoria Queen Victoria was married to her cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg Gotha on February 10, 1840. Queen Victoria chose to wear white for her wedding but, unlike previous monarchs, her dress was devoid of excessive silver or gold adornment and was celebrated as a symbol of her virginity and modesty. Already a popular queen, her wedding was closely watched and every detail of the ceremony was disseminated through the popular press to the eager public. However, while Victoria’s choice of white dress was seen as a gesture of restraint, the ensuing fashion for white weddings quickly became an expression of excess for non-royal brides.
Marriage of Victoria and Albert. Painting by George Hayter, 1840-42. Back Next

These shoes, worn by Queen Victoria, are virtually identical to the pair she wore to her wedding. They also date to 1840, the year of her wedding. This pair, like her wedding shoes, is similarly embellished with ribbon applique and has very delicate elastic across the instep. English, 1840. Worn by Queen Victoria Collection of the BSM P85.363 Back Next

Prince Albert married Queen Victoria in an outfit befitting his station. Elegantly attired, his outfit included a pair of fashionable pumps similar to these. The square toe and low cut of his shoes mirrored the shape of the shoes worn by the Queen; the large buckles and black leather gave them masculine presence. Pair of men’s pumps. English, c. 1840s Collection of the BSM P87.54 Back Next

White Weddings The effects of Queen Victoria’s white wedding on Western bridal costume were far reaching. As increasing numbers of brides sought to emulate royal fashion, the role and meaning of the wedding dress changed dramatically. While wedding dresses of earlier times were, in part, prized as “best dresses” that would be worn again and again, by the late 19th century the white wedding dress had evolved into a single use item, its expanse of white fabric symbolizing purity as well as disposable wealth. By the 20th century, a bride dressed in white from head to toe was the icon of the Western wedding.
Back Next

These cream silk shoes feature wax flowers and beaded butterflies edged with rhinestones at the throat. Evelyn Mary Nicol wore them with a cream-colored velvet dress at her wedding in September 1929. Collection of the BSM, S97.139 Back Next

India Marriage is considered an integral aspect of Hindu life in India. Traditional Hindu marriage celebrations combine intense spiritual symbolism with playful traditions that can last for several days. Back Next

Mehndi: Dyeing for Love One of the first gifts a groom’s family might give his bride is the mehndi or henna that she will use to decorate her hands and feet for the wedding. The mehndi is often accompanied with gifts of jewellery, such as toe rings and ankle bracelets made of beautifully worked precious metals and jewels. The mehndi patterns used on the bride’s hands and feet are decorative and sometimes symbolic of marital happiness and fertility. In some communities, the husband’s name is cleverly hidden among the graceful designs and his first task as a new husband is to locate it, reflecting the patience required for a successful marriage. Back Next

This gold ankle bracelet and toe ring are luxuriously embellished with precious gems. The ankle bracelet is articulated for comfort, and the toe ring is hinged. Gold ankle bracelet with diamonds and rubies. India, 18th century. Collection of the BSM P99.71 Gold toe ring with diamonds and rubies. Deccan, India, 18th century. Collection of the BSM P99.70 Back Next

Precious Steps A Hindu bride in India is prepared for her new life with an abundance of gifts. From household items such as furniture and utensils to new clothes and shoes, her dowry and the gifts she receives can be quite extravagant. Of the many and varied gifts that she might receive, ornately worked silver shoes are the epitome of luxury. A great variety of Indian footwear styles can be found in silver gift shoes. This pair of Paduka are Gujurati-style and come from Zanzibar. They are covered in metal and feature small bells that announce the arrival of the wearer. Gujarat, India, Collection of the BSM P79.568 Back Next

Stealing the Groom’s Shoes An important part of the groom’s wedding attire is his beautifully embroidered wedding shoes. He leaves these to the side when he enters the area where the wedding will take place. In some parts of India, and not exclusive to Hindu weddings, the sisters and cousins of the bride take this opportunity to steal his shoes. In this playful game, they quickly hide the shoes and only return them when their ransom demands are met. This pair of khussa features very fine gold thread embroidery on the uppers and an embroidered upturned toe. The inside is elaborately embroidered with gold and silver thread and would be admired when the groom removed his shoes. Today, extravagant shoes such as these are reserved for special occasions such as weddings. Gold embroidered khussa, Northern India, early 20th century Collection of the BSM S01.19 Back Next

Moravia Moravia, in what is now the Czech Republic, is world renowned for rich diversity of its traditional dress. Historically, each region celebrated community affiliation with its own distinctive costume. On wedding days, everyone wore his or her best clothes. For brides and grooms, weddings were an opportunity to both pledge fidelity to one another and to express their community fidelity through their costumes. Back Next

The Maiden Threw Her Shoe If and when one will be married is a question asked all over the world. In parts of Moravia, it was a popular custom for unwed girls on Christmas Eve to take off one of their shoes and, with their backs to their front doors, toss it at the door. Tradition said that if the toe of the shoe faced toward the door, the girl would be married before the next Christmas. Throughout Eastern Europe, the traditional shoe shape was the opanke. Usually constructed out of one piece of leather, an opanke can be gathered around the foot and secured by ties. This pair of shoes was constructed by braiding the leather along the front seam and gathering it along the top edge of the shoe. It is embellished with simple stamped designs. Leather opanke. Bojnice, Czech Republic, 1990 Collection of the BSM S90.159 Back Next

Accordion Pleats Historically, brides in Ratiskovice, a Moravian community located in the region of Slovacko, spent long hours embroidering the outfits that they would wear on their wedding day. One of the features of this costume was a short skirt under which were worn a pair of showy boots with deeply pleated shafts and decoratively embroidered uppers. For the wedding, a gold coin was slipped into the boot as a means of ensuring future prosperity. The coin given to the bride to slip into these boots would have been an Austro-Hungarian coin as, in the early 20th century, Moravia was still a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This pair of boots features festive embroidery and incorporates both accordion pleats and a smooth upper shaft. Similar a bride’s boots from Ratiskovice, they also come from the region of Slovacko. Women’s boots with embroidery and accordion pleats. Slovacko region, Czech Republic, 1999. Collection of the BSM P99.82 Back Next The coin given to the bride to slip into these boots would have been an Austro-Hungarian coin as, in the early 20th century, Moravia was still a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This pair of boots features festive embroidery and incorporates both accordion pleats and a smooth upper shaft. Similar a bride’s boots from Ratiskovice, they also come from the region of Slovacko. Women’s boots with embroidery and accordion pleats. Slovacko region, Czech Republic, 1999. Collection of the BSM P99.82

The Dance of Courtship In parts of Moravia, young men and women traditionally mingled on festival days and on special occasions. At weddings in Ratiskovice, the single people would perform a special dance using banners made of large red scarves. Throughout Moravia, both dancing and community identification were facilitated by the style and decoration of the footwear worn to such events. This pair of men’s boots is from Dolni Bojanovice in southern Moravia. While many men’s boots in the Czech Republic lack adornment, these boots with long purple tassels, decorative embroidery featuring distinctive heart motifs, and brass toplift at the heel are anything but plain. Men’s tasseled boots. Dolni Bojanovice, Czech Republic. Collection of the BSM P99.7 Back Next

These women’s boots from the region of Slovacko in Southern Moravia reflect the fashion for lace-up boots popular at the turn of the 20th century. The pinked topline and overall embroidery have transformed them from fashion statement to folk costume with clear regional identification. Women’s lace-up boots. Slovacko region, Czech Republic, 1984. Collection of the BSM P99.9 Back Next

Japan Although Shintoism is the indigenous belief system of Japan, Shinto wedding ceremonies only became popular in the early 20th century. The ceremony, which is performed with an austere and elegant simplicity, takes place within a Shinto shrine or another consecrated space. Only individuals close to the couple witness the vows. After the ceremony, friends and family gather to celebrate the new union. Back Next

Two Soles Together Traditionally in Japan, matches were arranged by the families of the bridal couple. Engagements were sealed with an exchange of gifts. Among the many gifts that a bride might receive could be a pair of double-soled zori that, unlike everyday zori, had two soles that were bound together as a symbol of matrimonial harmony. The origin of the Japanese zori or thong sandals dates back at least 1000 years. Simple in design and frequently made of readily available materials, zori were worn as everyday footwear until the end of the Edo period (1868). This pair is very finely woven and covered in luxurious velvet. Engagement zori. Japan, late 19th century. Collection of the BSM P94.50 Back Next

Priest’s Shoes The outfit worn by the Shinto priest who officiates at the wedding ceremony is of pure white and symbolizes purity. His shoes, of glossy black lacquered palownia wood, reflect an ancient style worn by Japanese nobles in the 11th century. They are thought to have originally been crafted out of leather. Shinto priests wear these lacquered shoes, called asagutsu or shallow shoes in Japanese. The inside of the shoe, across the instep, is padded for comfort and to increase ease in walking. Lacquered asagutsu. Tokyo, Japan, 1984. Collection of the BSM S84.199 Back Next

Groom’s shoes A traditional Japanese groom’s outfit reflected an elegant modesty. Attired in sombre black with white, the groom would also wear crisp white socks called tabi in humble straw sandals, or zori. Simple zori are considered an essential accessory for Japanese men wearing kimono. Although zori could be made at home, a skilled craftsman would have made finely woven ones such as these. Zori. Japan, c. 1980. Collection of the BSM P87.3 White cotton tabi. Japan, c. 1970. Collection of the BSM S79.76 Back Next

Korea In Korea, marriage was viewed as an important duty. Confucian beliefs imported from China coupled with indigenous ideas about familial respect gave marriage its profound importance. Marriage, with its promise of a continuing family line, is a highly honoured institution. Back Next

Slippers for an Empress Traditionally, a Korean bride was said to be an “empress for the day.” Her wedding shoes would be in the traditional Korean canoe-like shape but, rather than being covered in simple textile, they would be surfaced with luxurious brocaded silk. Frequently, the silk was figured with tiny blossoms and the colour was often red, a colour of life and vitality. Traditional Korean shoes have a distinctive canoe-like shape. Upper class women’s silk covered shoes are called woon-hye and were an important accessory to Korean bridal costume. These shoes feature butterfly motifs at the toe. Red silk covered woon-hye . Korea, c. 1880. Collection of the BSM P81.363 Back Next

Buhshun: Korean Socks One of the traditional items in the dowry of a young Korean bride would be a sewing chest. Textile work was a prized skill and sock making, in particular, was the responsibility of a wife. Women made patterns for each of their family members out of delicate rice paper and then kept these patterns neatly folded in little brocaded envelopes that frequently had images, such as ducks or cranes, which symbolized harmonious marriages. This sewing box contains many of the things a young bride might need to sew socks for her new family. Scissors, spools, needle cases, pincushion, and the unique Korean thimble are all included here as are the pouches for holding the sock patterns and the patterns themselves. The small pair of embroidered socks or buhshun would have been made as a special present for a young child. Notice the silver needle case with a sock-shaped charm. Sewing chest and accessories. Seoul, Korea, 1890-1920. Collection of the BSM S83.98 Back Next

Official Boots Like the bride, the groom’s social status was also elevated on his wedding day. Unlike his bride, who was seen as an “empress for the day,” he was symbolically elevated to the status of an official, a social designation that suggested merit rather than privilege. On his wedding day, he stepped into a pair of boots that were the prerogative of the official class. The fine black velvet material used for these boots indicates ceremonial, rather than foul weather, use. Called mok-hwa in Korean, these boots were an indicator of rank. Velvet was the traditional material for officials’ boots, but black wool was also sometimes used. Black velvet mok-hwa. Korea, c. 1880. Collection of the BSM S82.144 Back Next

Mini wedding stories from around the globe There are wedding traditions from around the globe that require specialized footwear, and these shoes are often kept in families for many years because they commemorate such a momentous occasion. Back Next

Siroua Mountains, Morroco Berber decorations, be they in henna design or embroidery, often incorporate protective symbols. Various parts of the body are considered easy entry points for evil jnun or spirits, and protection from these forces is sought through symbolism. Feet are considered to be vulnerable parts of the body and for this reason, henna designs on the feet and the decorations on footwear are rich with protective symbolism. This pair of shoes is embroidered with symbolic designs. The diamond shapes made of bright green thread represent a frog; a symbol of fertility. Shoes like this pair often have the backs folded down, transforming them into babouche. Collection of the BSM S94.50, Back Next

Sápmi The Saami homeland, known as Sápmi , extends across Norway, Sweden, Finland and into Russia. Saami costume varies from region to region but is uniform in its brightly hued garments and distinctly curled-toe boots of reindeer skin. For many Saami, traditional wedding costumes included white reindeer fur boots for both the bride and groom. These boots from the Anar Saami of Finland are crafted from the white leg fur of a reindeer. This style is worn by both men and women at weddings and features the characteristic curled toe of Saami footwear. This pair was made for a man and is decorated with multi-coloured yarn pompoms. White reindeer fur boots. Anar, Finland, c. 1990. Collection of the BSM P00.19 Back Next

Marken, The Netherlands Marken is a small island in The Netherlands renowned for its intricately carved wedding clogs. In times past, grooms would carve these clogs for their betrothed. Mainly fishermen, many hopeful grooms would carve these intricate designs while away at sea. These wedding clogs were hand-carved over 100 years ago. The bride’s initials are carved in Gothic script at the throat and the lace-like carved designs give this pair an air of delicacy. Carved clogs. Marken, Netherlands, late 19th century. Collection of the BSM P86.251 Back Next

Turkey Ottoman brides were ritually bathed before their weddings at the hammam or Turkish bath. The accoutrements needed for the bath included Turkish towels, a bowl for pouring water, and a pair of tall sandals called nalin. Brides were frequently gifted with silver nalin and a matching bowl as a lavish marriage gift. This pair of silver nalin and matching bowl were a wedding present given to a bride in Istanbul about 100 years ago. Intricately decorated with incised floral designs and infilled with neillo, a composite of sulphur and silver or lead, this gift was a treasured family heirloom. Silver nalin and bowl. Istanbul, Turkey, c. 1900. Collection of the BSM P89.240 Back Next

Malacca Straits, Malaysia The Peranakan Chinese community in Malaysia was established in the 19th century when immigrants from Southern China moved to the Selat Melaka (Strait of Malacca) region. One Han Chinese cultural tradition integrated into this new community was the importance placed on shoes made by wives and daughters, especially those made for marriage. Young brides-to-be created elegant mules with elaborately beaded and embroidered uppers for their prospective grooms and families to assess. Brides also often made the mules that they wore at their weddings. Many of these mules were long kept as treasured family heirlooms. Collection of the BSM, P79.93 Back Next

Halona Idiwan'a The A:shiwi (Zuni) have lived in the southwestern part of North America since time immemorial. Traditionally, an A:shiwi groom was responsible for making the pair of wedding boots to be worn by his bride. Created out of white deerskin, the pre-formed soles of the boots had to be sewn to the one-piece uppers using stitches not visible to the eye and sewn without turning the boots inside out. This difficult requirement made the creation of these boots a true test of skill and devotion. These boots have a pre-formed rawhide sole to which large pieces of native tanned skins have been sewn with sinew. The pieces of leather wrap around the leg and would be secured with leather ties. Southwestern United States, mid- 20th century. Collection of the BSM S80.1402 Back Next

Happily Ever After Today, the image of shoes tied to the bumper of a car is an icon meaning “just married.” These shoes are considered to be a symbol of good luck. The origins of this practice have been obscured through time. More than 100 years ago, it was traditional in the West to hurl shoes at the departing couple. The throwing of shoes may have initially been a form of protest that a bride was being taken away. Over time, the tradition may have been modified to the tying of the shoes to the bumper. Back Next

Just Married We hope you enjoyed learning all about wedding shoes! Learn more about footwear from around the world with our exhibitions and programs. Travel the world with our online exhibitions!
Enjoy virtual tours from the comfort of your home. Follow us @batashoemuseum Back Restartreplay The Perfect Pair: Wedding Shoes Story.
Toronto: Bata Shoe Museum Foundation, 2021
All items from the collection of Bata Shoe Museum.
Copyright © 2021 Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, Canada